Africa - Serengeti and Masai Mara

OK- after the crater, we loaded up Oscar to head for the Serengeti.  Within the first half hour we were already up on the roof seats having spotted lots of giraffes close to the road.  They are so fun to watch, and amazingly graceful considering their bodies!  Once in the park, we quickly happened upon a family of lions sleeping off a kill or a shag session- we're not sure which!  The Serengeti is vast- we drove for hours and only covered a small section.  In the two days we were there we saw thousands and thousands of wildebeest as they were beginning their migration.  There were times when they were crossing the road in front of us, and we were there for at least a half hour or more as they lined up to cross.  It even looked like some were herding the others and some were crossing guards.  They mingle frequently with zebra, and they are a funny pair to see together.  Highlights in the Serengeti were the giraffes- plentiful along the road, a family of elephants including 2 babies- oh so cute! and a pride of lions fresh from a kill.  We even got to see the buffalo carcass before the hyenas had gotten there.  We stayed in the park- the first night in a driving rain storm.  The darkness and the rain made it scarier than it already was, knowing that we would likely be visited by lions in the night.  We were lucky that night- only hyenas.  But the next night, it did sound like there was a lion close  by.  If only I had learned how to catheter myself!  Oh torture!

After the Serengeti and the crater- how would the Masai Mara compare?  Well- we were off to Kenya to find out.  We got permission from our company's insurance carrier to enter Kenya for 3 days instead of just for transit which would allow us to see the parks there.  We spent one night at Lake Victoria.  We didn't get to see too much of it though because it was more of a transit stop.  I was just happy to have a shower after a couple of days.  It was cold, and there were ants everywhere, but it was better than nothing!  Getting to the Mara though was an epic journey we had not prepared for.  It was at least 14 hours of driving- the last 3 on a bumpy dirt road through Masai villages.  After about the 12th hour, we started drinking all of the beer in the fridge, and hoping that Brett and Jen had some clue where they were going.  Finally we stopped and picked up a Masai- Robert who guided us to our campsite.  The Blair Witch conversation didn't help our feelings of comfort with the wooded location!

The morning was bright though and the location beautiful.  We were off to the Mara!  We did a little shopping outside the gate, and were hounded by the most persistent Masai women selling beeded stuff you ever saw.  They put stuff in your hand and then won't take it back.  You actually have to drop it to get rid of it! I think they could find jobs easily in the states- used cars maybe?

Anywho- into the park.  We saw zebra, gazelle, elephant and giraffes.  But the animals were few and far between, and the roads bad. We had to get off the roof seats at least once in case we tipped over.  Then, we got a puncture in one of our 6 tires.  It seemed like a good time to get to our campsite and settle in, fix the tire etc. and cut our losses.  We whiled away the time with riddles before dinner and enjoyed a last night together.  This morning, we woke early and were on the road by 6:45 to catch the animals.  We were rewarded by a pride of lions on the hunt.  There were even 8 cubs with them!  We watched them for at least 40 minutes.  Unfortunately- humans are pretty dumb, and several groups of tourists drove offroad (not allowed) and very close to the animals (also not allowed) which affected their hunt.  We got license plates though and reported them to the rangers who were grateful for the info.  It was amazing though, and we got to hear the male roar which was very scary actually.  Then, we went along our merry way and came across another family of lions about a yard from the road.  We all commented about how every time we think we have seen the best thing- we see something even better.  Well, we stopped at the front gate in order for Nariane to complete her second day of negotiations with the curio shop.  In the end she paid $150 and a sleeping bag for her treasures- so she was happy.  On the way back to the road- the final treat.  A newborn zebra- maybe an hour old at most.  He was learning to walk with mom, and was surrounded by vultures (looking for afterbirth we think) and jackals.  It was interesting to watch the mother kick the vultures and other zebras come to herd the jackals away.  Hope the pictures turn out!

Now we are back in civilization- Nairobi.  I am happy to have a real bathroom- I am tired of squatting in the woods, or using the most disgusting squat holes ever.  I will have a hot shower tonight, and actually be clean for the first time in weeks.  We were sad to see our truck leave though.  We had a great group on the trip- couldn't have asked for better.  We had lots of great conversations, and some very competitive card games!  I learned to play cribbage even.  I will be happy to be out of tents and sleeping bags for a while, and away from the trash and filth so common in the third world.  But, I will miss seeing the miracle of these huge wild creatures, and I will miss the people along the side of the road.  Everywhere they wave.  And when your eyes connect- they smile and you smile.  We see each other.  It is something I think.  OK so much for the philosophy, I'm getting carpal tunnel and I am starving.  I head home tomorrow, but won't get there until Monday.  I will get in touch soon, once I have finished my laundry and getting my pictures developed!

Take care,

Linda